Friday, October 10, 2008 - South Edisto River to New River, SC

Pulled the anchor at 0800. We had the current against us most of the way to Beaufort, South Carolina, passing there around 1200. The sky was overcast and hazy. Every time dolphins swim over to Seascape to ride her wake, Sailor either hears or smells them and has a fit. If I carry him out to see them, it is all I can do to hold him and his bark sounds more like a scream. Sometimes the dolphins turn on their side and look right at him.

We anchored at 1545 in New River, 35 miles south of Beaufort. The anchorage was appeared to be well protected from a NNE wind. We took Sailor to a launch ramp at Daufuskie Landing. Dora cooked black beans and rice for dinner.

Thursday, October 9, 2008 - Isle of Palms to South Edisto River, SC

We backed out of the slip at Isle of Palms at 0700 intending to stop at the marina to pump out the holding tank but when we called them on the radio we were told that their pump wasn’t working, so we just kept on going. The passage across Charleston Harbor was rolly but no problem.

We were going to be bucking a strong current through Wappo Creek and Elliott Cut so we decided to kill some time and stop at City of Charleston Marina to pump out. The price for fuel wasn’t too bad ($3.38/ gallon) so we tool on 100 gallons. It was a very well run marina with helpful staff.

Most of the rest of the day was through narrow man made cuts and natural creeks. About 1400 storm clouds started to build to the northwest. As a precaution we quickly made preparations to anchor near Fenwick Cut off the South Edisto River just as the wind started to blow and rain hard. It was all over in less than an hour but we chose to stay anchored for the night. We launched the dinghy to take Sailor to shore and settled in for the night.

Wednesday, October 8, 2008 - Isle of Palms, SC

We were slow getting started this morning. I put the Texas registration sticker on Seascape, making her officially a Texas boat. Dora stayed on the boat while Sue and I ran some errands. We went to Lowes to buy a hole saw, dropped off a prescription at CVS, stopped by Sue’s condo to drill a hole in her golf cart so we could install an electric gauge, made a quick stop at West Marine for some adhesive to repair a hole in Arleen’s inflatable dinghy, and headed back to the Arleen’s where I put a patch on her dinghy. We had a delicious dinner at Arleen’s and came back later for desert.

Tuesday, October 7, 2008 - Isle of Palms, SC

Chris and Flor Dowling, friends from our early days in Vero Beach, Florida, came by for a visit around 1030. They moved to Charleston about 15 years ago and have a nice home on James Island. They took us an a short tour of Charleston. We had lunch at an Irish Pub in downtown Charleston and then we went by their home, since we had never seen it. They dropped us of at Isle of Palms and promised to visit us in Palacios.

Sue and Arleen came over for dinner. We fixed chicken fried steak, onions and potatoes, and spinach. After they left we watched the presidential debates.

Monday, October 6, 2008 - Isle of Palms, SC

Dora did laundry at Arleen’s house while Barry Ainsworth spent over an hour on the phone helping me fix some problems with my computer that I probably caused. I also worked on the bilge pump in Arleen’s sailboat. Around lunch time we drove to Daniel Island ( about 15 mines) to see Sue’s beautiful condominium on the fourth floor of a new development. We had lunch at a small Mexican restaurant on Daniel’s Island. On the way back, we stopped off at West Marine to pick up some things I needed to fix the bilge pump. Arleen and I went to the boat to finish the bilge pump repairs while Sue and Dora went to the grocery store. We had lasagna for dinner at Arleen’s house.

Sunday, October 5, 2008 - Georgetown to Isle of Palms, SC

I took Sailor to shore at an old, rundown boatyard. I thought we had had it when a large black lab and a gigantic mastiff came up behind me. We were both relieved that they were friendly.

We were underway again by 0800. Except for the Cape Fear River area, most of the day was spent in dredged land cuts. The wind picked up in the afternoon. We had the current with us most of the way.

We arrived at Isle of Palms (Wild Dunes) at 1600 after covering 55 miles. Our friends Sue and Arleen had arranged for us to dock at a privately owned slip whose owner was away. They meet us at the slip and helped us tie up. The four of us went out to dinner Morgan Creek Grill located next to the marina.

Saturday, October 4, 2008 - Little River to Georgetown, SC

I got up early because we were starting to get waked by fishing boats speeding by the marina. As soon as sailor was walked we departed. We had an easy cruise all day. The wind was 10-15 from the northeast and the sky was partly cloudy. We anchored in the Sandpit River near Georgetown, South Carolina at 1400. The anchorage across from the town was crowded so we chose to anchor close to shore in the south channel of the Creek near a high bridge and an industrial area. There wasn’t a good place to take Sailor to shore so we lowered the kayak and I paddled him to the adjacent shore. We had to climb a four foot, eroded bank and work our way through high weeds and fire aunt mounds. It was a beautiful, calm night at anchor.

Friday, October 3, 2008 - Wrightsville Beach, NC to Little River, SC

I got up early and Sailor and I went to the shore in the dinghy and got back quickly. Dora and I had the dinghy loaded topside and we were underway by 0725. It was a cool, calm and sunny day. Except for the Cape Fear River, most of the trip was through land cuts. Depths stayed consistently 16-17 feet. There were an incredible number of very large homes along almost the entire route. Many of them appeared to be second homes.
Of course we arrived at the only bridge that had to open for us, 45 minutes early, so we had to idle the last couple of miles to avoid having to maneuver at the bridge for a long time.

We docked at 1645 at Crickett Cove Marina (mile marker 345) near Little River, South Carolina. They put us on a face dock parallel with the ICW so we were rocked by wakes from boats that didn’t slow down. It was a nice marina with very clean showers .We paid $1.50 per foot plus $5.00 for electric service. Dora gave Sailor a bath while I tried , with no luck, to download navigation charts using Coastal Explorer and posted two days of our blog. We had pork roast for dinner.

Thursday, October 2, 2008 - Snead's Ferry to Wrightsville Beach, NC

We had to walk Seascape back to the end of the face dock and pull her around the end because there wasn’t enough room in the small basin to maneuver. Once we got it around, we both jumped aboard and I backed her as far as I could and thin used power and the thruster to swing her 90 degrees out the narrow opening in the breakwater. I was glad that there wasn’t very much wind.

We had to wait 50 minutes at the Surf City swing bridge because it only opens on the hour,15 minutes at the Figure Eight Island swing bridge which only opens on the half hour, and over an hour at the Wrightsville Beach bascule bridge. We anchored in the bight just southwest of Mitts Channel, inside the protection of Wrightsville Beach in 12 feet of water. The 40 miles had taken us five and one half hours because of the bridges.

We took Sailor to shore in the dinghy and bought a few groceries at a small beach market

Wednesday, October 1,2008 - Morehead City to Swan Point Marina at Snead's Ferry, NC

Dora showered at the marina and we departed Morehead City Yacht Basin at 0930. It was overcast and cool. We had an uneventful 42 mile trip although I never like going through Camp Jejune. We could hear the artillery firing nearby. We docked at Swan Point Marina in Snead’s Ferry located south of New River Inlet. It is a small, family run marina and boatyard that is a little run down. I had to enter the marina basin at nearly full throttle to avoid being swept past the basin opening by the swift tidal current. Dockage was $1.50/ft including electric service. We walked Sailor through the boatyard. Many of the boats were derelicts. A thunderstorm passed through just before dark producing high winds and some rain. We had chicken fried steak for dinner.

Tuesday, September 30, 2008 - Neuse River to Morehead City, NC

It started raining just before sunrise. I was up at 0700, made coffee and waited for the rain to stop. As soon as it slacked off, Sailor and I went to shore. He knew the routine and did everything in 2-3 minutes and we were on our way back to the boat. We hoisted the anchor and were underway by 0830.

The sky remained overcast and threatened more rain all day. We decided to stay at Morehead City Yacht Basin located northwest of the port facilities. We arrived around 1400. It was a very nice marina with a long face dock. We were able to pump out and take on 40 gallons of diesel right where we tied up. I took a shower while Dora did two loads of laundry at the marina. We shared the $10.00 charge to use the marinas courtesy car with Mary and Charlie and we all set out for WalMart. On the way we stopped at a marine supply store so I could buy some fuel filters. We walked to a nice restaurant near the marina and had some excellent food.

Monday, September 29, 2008 - Belhaven to Neuse River,NC

We left the anchorage off Belhaven at 0800. It was a clear day with light winds out of the northeast. We motored 45 miles to Broad creek on the west side of the Neuse River. There were only wide areas in the natural channel in the creek to anchor. We dropped the hook near the creek’s mouth in nine feet of water at 1300. Many more boats came in later in the afternoon and anchored further up the creek.. We rode the dingy over to Charlie and Mary’s sailboat for dinner. We enjoyed excellent spaghetti and good company. It was well past dark when we got back to our boat. Without any man made lights we could see millions of stars.

Sunday, September 28, 2008 - Tuckahoe Point to Belhaven, NC

I found a narrow sandy beach right next to a small yacht club to take sailor to shore. We had breakfast, hoisted the outboard and dinghy, pulled the anchor and were underway by 0815. We stopped at the Alligator River Marina near mile marker 85 and took on 150 gallons of diesel at $3.69 per gallon ($553.84). We made 55 miles in beautiful weather and anchored west of Tuckahoe Point off of the Alligator River at 1430.

About 1630 we launched the dinghy and took Sailor to shore. Both shorelines as far as we could see was bordered by cypress swamp with little or no place to land a boat. We found one small patch of high ground about ten feet square with lots of brier, I climbed through the brier and put Sailor down and he just stared at me and wouldn’t do anything We tried the other shore but couldn’t locate any dry land at all and finally gave up. Sailor would just have to wait until tomorrow. We stopped by Mary and Charlie’s boat for cocktails and headed back to Seascape. We made Mediterranean kabobs and plantains for dinner. Star watching was amazing without any city lights.

Saturday, September 27, 2008 - Elizabeth City to Tuckahoe Point off the Alligator River, NC

I found a narrow sandy beach right next to a small yacht club to take sailor to shore. We had breakfast, hoisted the outboard and dinghy, pulled the anchor and were underway by 0815. We stopped at the Alligator River Marina near mile marker 85 and took on 150 gallons of diesel at $3.69 per gallon ($553.84). We made 55 miles in beautiful weather and anchored west of Tuckahoe Point off of the Alligator River at 1430.

About 1630 we launched the dinghy and took Sailor to shore. Both shorelines as far as we could see was bordered by cypress swamp with little or no place to land a boat. We found one small patch of high ground about ten feet square with lots of brier, I climbed through the brier and put Sailor down and he just stared at me and wouldn’t do anything We tried the other shore but couldn’t locate any dry land at all and finally gave up. Sailor would just have to wait until tomorrow. We stopped by Mary and Charlie’s boat for cocktails and headed back to Seascape. We made Mediterranean kabobs and plantains for dinner. Star watching was amazing without any city lights.

Friday, September 26, 2008 - Dismal Swamp Canal Welcome Center to Elizabeth City, NC

We departed the Dismal Swamp Canal Welcome Center at 0745 and reached the southern lock at South Mills at 0830. The bascule bridge, just before the lock, opened a few minutes before the scheduled opening at 0900 and we were through the lock and underway in about 35 minutes. We had dropped eight feet in the lock.

Motoring the 18 miles to Elizabeth City was uneventful. We anchored north of the Highway 158 bascule bridge north of town at 1200 in about 10 feet of water. After lunch we launched the dinghy and picked up our friends, Mary and Charlie, on Mary Wanderer, and headed for town. It was very choppy at the city docks so we motored up a small creek and tied up to a bulkhead adjacent to a bridge.

We all walked to a small deli that had WiFi and had a drink while I posted several entries in our blog. On the way back to the boat we stopped at the Museum of Albemarle for an hour or so. The wind died down around sunset. We had ground beef and potatoes for dinner and watched the Presidential debates. It was a pleasant night at anchor.

Thursday, September 25, 2008 - Dismal Swamp Canal Welcome Center, NC

It started raining and the wind velocity increased to 30 t0 40 knots around 0300. It continued to rain off and on all day. At 1000 Dora and Kathy went with Tom and Linda in their rental car to do laundry and some shopping. Dick and I went over to Gene and Kathy’s boat to help Gene trouble shoot a problem that has developed with their house battery bank. Later, I changed the oil in the Lehman’s injection pump and tightened the belts on the 200 amp alternator.

After dinner we had Dick, Libby, Gene and Kathy over to play a word game called Balderdash (or something like that). We talked about our plans for tomorrow. The consensus was to leave early enough to make the 0900 lock opening at the Mill Creek lock and then motor the 17 miles to Elizabeth City and anchor just north of the highway bridge.

Wednesday, September 24, 2008 - Dismal Swamp Canal Visitor Welcome Center, NC

I got up at 0700 and made coffee. The wind was already blowing 20 to 30 mph. Charlie knocked on the boat and asked if I wanted to ride with him to pick up some fuel. I needed to buy gasoline for the generator and a small amount of diesel to fill the Racor after changing the filter. We had to drive nearly to Elizabeth City to find a service station that sold both gasoline and diesel. When we got back, I filled the Racor with diesel and bled the fuel lines on the Kohler generator. The generator started immediately, thank goodness.

We invited our friends from yesterday plus Tom and Linda who own Frances Ray, the trawler we are to which we are rafted, and Dick on a double ended sailboat, Tarwathie, at the dock behind us, for cocktails and snacks at 1700 on Seascape. We had lots of fun talking about boats, cruising, our lives and even a little politics.

Tuesday, September 23, 2008 - Dismal Swamp Canal Welcome Center, NC

We had a slow day at the Welcome Center. I did some work in the engine room while Dora straightened up the mess from the rough trip the day before. We meet Gene and Kathy on Sutton Creek, a Duffy downeast, and Charley and Mary on Mary Wanderer, a Hunter sailboat.

We walked across a small swing bridge to the west bank of the canal and visited the Dismal Swamp State Park Visitor Center in the afternoon. Around 1700, Kathy, Mary, Gene and Charlie came over for cocktails and we all went out to dinner in Elizabeth City in Charlie and Mary’s rental car. The six of us were really squeezed into the little sub-compact. We had a good meal with food friends.

Monday, Sept. 22, 2008 - Poquoson River to Dismal Swamp Canal Welcome Center, NC

It was a calm night anchored in Chisman Creek off the Poquoson River. We slept until nearly 0800. We needed to buy some fuel filters so we ran up the creek in the dinghy to a large marina assuming that they would have what we needed. Of course they didn’t but we got to walk Sailor and at least accomplished something. We had a quick breakfast, hauled the dinghy topside and pulled the anchor about 0900. By then the wind had started to pick up. We had to go east around Poquoson Flats and head southeast out into Chesapeake Bay which placed the wind on our beam, making for a rough ride. We were finally able to turn in a southerly direction.

We crossed through Hampton Roads, passed Norfolk Naval Air Station, and entered the Elizabeth River. The Elizabeth River is lined with ship yards and Naval vessels with numerous security boats patrolling near by.

We had miscalculated the distance to the Deep Creek Lock at the north end of the Great Dismal Swamp Canal. As a result, to make the 1500 lock opening, we had to run nearly full throttle for the last 20 minutes and made it with less than four minutes to spare. The lock only operates at 0900 and 1500 each day.

We were locked though with three other boats. The locking procedure took almost an hour. The lock master informed us that a very strong northeaster was headed our way and suggested that we might want to stay in the canal until the storm has blown through on Thursday or Friday. Three of the boats docked at a wharf just inside the lock but we decided to continue the 18 miles to the Visitor Center which is four miles north of the lock at the south end of the canal. We ran very slow to avoid kicking up any sunken logs because on the trip north last year we hit a log and bent our prop. We arrived at the Visitor Center at 1830 we found the face dock full with three boats and a fourth boat rafted to the center boat. Some of the boaters helped us raft to a large trawler on the south end of the dock.

We walked Sailor, ate leftovers and went to bed. It had been a long day.

Sunday, September 21, 2008 - Reedville to Poquoson River, VA

We were up early and underway by 0715. It was relatively calm and partly cloudy ad we departed Reedville. By the time we were out into the Chesapeake the wind had already started to pickup from the east-northeast. This put the wind immediately off our beam. Rather than roll around we decided to alter course and head into Deltaville, VA. We dropped anchor in Fishing Bay at 1100 (196 Miles traveled), well protected from the east wind. Before we were even anchored we started to receive WiFi.

By the time we had lunch it appeared that the wind speed had diminished considerably. Rather than waste the rest of the day we pulled the anchor and continued our trip. It took us nearly an hour to get out the Wicomico River and head south on Chesapeake Bay.

The bay was still choppy but the waves were on our stern quarter and our ride wasn’t bad. We chose to anchor in Chisman Creek off the Poquoson River. It was 1845 by the time we dropped anchor. We had to hurry to lower the dinghy and outboard from topside because it was rapidly getting dark and we still had to take Sailor to shore. All of the shoreline appeared to be private property so we pulled up to a small marina and Dora walked him to shore while I waited in the dinghy. He did his jobs and we got away without any hassles. The generator died after running for about an hour. I suspect that this was caused by a clogged fuel filter. We had leftover roast beef and turned in before 2200.

September 19 - 20, 2008 - Docked at Reedville Marina in Cockrell Creek, VA

Due to high northeast winds we decided to stay for two more nights at the marina. We washed the boat, did other chores and walked around the town. Reedville was named for Elijah Reed who established the first menhaden processing plant in 1873. The town, with many fine mansions built at the turn of the century by those made rich by the menhaden fishery, is in the National Register of Historic Places. Ruins of the many menhaden-processing plants still line the banks of Cockrell Creek. One plant is still operating. You can smell a strong fishy odor down wind from the plant.

September 18, 2008 - Smith Creek to Reedville, VA

Took Sailor to shore in the kayak. He wouldn't do his job on the beach so I had to climb a small eroded bluff with him in my arms and work our way through brush containing lots of poison ivy. He finally went adjacent to a corn field. We departed Smith Creek at 0740. It was cool and sunny crossing the mouth of the Potomic. Crossing the River, diagonally, took us almost two hours. The Chesapeake was already getting pretty choppy but the wind was on our stern quarter making for a pretty comfortable ride. We decided to only go as far as Reedville, VA because the wind was predicted to increase to 15-25 kts from the northeast. We docked at Reedville Marina at 1130. We pumped out the waste holding tank, ate lunch and took a nap. I changed the primary fuel filter for the Lehman engine. Total milage for the trip, 166 statute miles.

September 17, 2008 - Rhode River to Smith Creek, MD

We were up at 0630. I took sailor to the shore in the kayak and we were underway by 0730. It was another fantastic morning; chilly, clear and calm. The wind was 15-20 from the NE. It would have been pretty rocky if it hadn't been right on our stern. We passed the Patuxent River, rounded Point Lookout into the mouth of the Potomic River, and up Smith Creek on the Potomic's northwest shore, into a pleasant anchorage. We anchored in 16 feet of at 1630.

September 16, 2008 - We Are Finally Leaving Havre de Grace, MD

After four months of trying to sell Seascape in the Chesapeake Bay area, we decided to move on and head south with Palacios, Texas as our ultimate destination. We have no fixed schedule but we will probably leave the boat, either along the Okeechobee Waterway or on Florida's West Coast before Thanksgiving, go home until spring, and finish our trip next spring.

We castoff at 0830 and circled around to Tidewater Marina but they weren't open so we headed down the Susquehanna River into the northern most portion of Chesapeake Bay. It was a beautiful day for us to start our trip. The wind was out of the north 10-15 mph. We traveled about 60 miles and anchored in the Rhode River at 1550. We had a great night at anchor,cool, calm, and a full moon.